$229 – On the sedate side in terms of energy, this offers a slow-moving core of gently mulled black cherry and black currant fruit, backed by hints of tobacco, roasted cedar and warm earth. Shows a hint of the vintage’s rusticity, but the fruit is generous enough to easily compensate for that. A late violet echo offers a pretty hint of purity. Drink now through 2038. 700 cases made. –James Molesworth